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 24．LADIES OF CAUBUL．
SHUKKR LUB (Sugar-lips), the seated figure in this sketch, was the favourite wife of a former Hākim (governor) of Baumiaun, and niece by marriage of the Ameer Dost Mahommed Khaun. As a great favour, I was introduced to this lady at Caubul through the interest of a Baurukzye family. Though the women of the higher classes in Afghaunistaun are as strictly under the “purdah” (curtain) as those in Hindoostaun, they certainly enjoy life more than the latter; as they may be seen making constant pleasure excursions to the tombs and flower-gardens adjoining their towns, riding on horseback, tripping along the crowded bazārs, and listening to the love-tales of some ranting Persian story-teller, making their purchases and gossiping. On these occasions they keep closely veiled; but on arriving at some favourite and sequestered spot, “berai seyle,” for recreation or amusement, they throw off their disguise and restraint together. I have occasionally come suddenly on a group of them before they had time to veil themselves, or scud away like startled antelopes, and found the young girls strikingly handsome, though to a European taste their regular features were some what disfigured by rouge, white paint, and beauty-spots.
The Lady Shukkr Lub was a Kuzzilbaushe belle of the first water, the description of whose dress will show that of her country-women in general. Her long black hair, allowed to enshroud her whole figure, was divided into a hundred strings of gilded plaits. The back of her head was covered with a golden skullcap, adorned with a row of coins of the same metal. Splendid jewels, set in peculiar workmanship, hung from her nose and ears. Her eyes were dyed with “soormah” (antimony), which, put on with a bodkin drawn between the closed lids, gives to the organ that almond-shape so much admired. Her brows, by artificial means, assumed a crescent shape, the dye extending down either side the nose; a shawl pattern was painted between the arches. Her neck and cheeks were also dotted with moles and rouge, and henna stained her hands, feet, finger-nails, and toes a deep brown colour. These women amuse themselves in-doors with their pipes, embroidery, and conversation. They are very fond of gossip, but their toilette is the principal object of their existence. A few read; but writing is considered highly improper, as conducive to mischief and intrigues. Their habiliments are a loose shirt of crimson, or other bright-coloured silk, or satin, braided with broad gold lace, open at the bosom, and fastened at the throat by a brooch or jewel; a chintz jacket, resembling an hussar’s, adorned with loops and buttons, with wide sleeves pointed at the cuff, and caught by a stud at the wrist, to display the flowing shirt beneath; and trousers of rich velvet, or kimkob, edged with a massive band of gold, the joining of which is fringed out into a large tassel. The Afghaun ladies exercise more control over their husbands than is usual in Eastern countries. On this point, and on their out-of-door costume, I shall touch in another place, confining myself at present to a brief description of the celebrated Baumiaun, the government of which was held by our fair friend’s husband. I have no views of it, but a place so interesting in itself, and so unlike other parts of Afghaunistaun, introducing us as it does, also, to that peculiar people the Oosbegs, who are drawn thither for the sake of enslaving and plundering the Baumiaunchees, as well as to make war with us, merits at least attention.
A political mission, composed of Dr Lord and my brother, was established at Baumiaun and the countries North of Hindoo Coosh (the Indian Caucasus), as the former place was not only the frontier post of what remains of the kingdom of Caubul, but also the only road by which the exiled Dost Mahommed could revisit his lost dominions, and the first spot that could be reached by Russian intrigue. During the first four months of the presence of the English, the thermometer was below zero 14°to 18°, and it was with the greatest difficulty kept up, by a roaring fire, to 40°during the day. Indeed, no one could have survived, had he not followed the fashion of the natives, and sat and slept in furs and sheepskins. Baumiaun is a most extraordinary place, the site of the ruins of a vast subterranean city, said to have been founded by Zooraukh, a mighty heathen king, and inhabited by infidels. Eight hundred years before the Mahommedan era is the time fixed upon by sages (by whom it is said to be the Paropamisan Alexandria) for the digging of its spacious caves and subterranean passages, and the building of the two famous images, the larger of which is a hundred and eighty, the smaller a hundred and thirty feet high. They stand in niches and recesses, cut in the mountain side, and being completely sheltered from the weather, retain almost entirely their original colour and appearance. Some idea may be formed of the size of the smaller image from the fact that there is a staircase up the legs, and a tolerably-sized chamber in her head. This figure, they say, is a woman. These colossal statues, with their caves and antiquities, show that the former inhabitants were followers of Boodha. The caves are also most worthy of remark. The hill-side for upwards of four miles is completely covered with them.The generality of them are small, but some are very spacious and well-proportioned, particularly those near the images. One interior was twenty yards in length, with proportional breadth and height, in good repair, the plaister still adhering to the walls, and in one place six feet of the carved cornice (supposed to be the original) perfect. On the opposite side of the valley we have these interesting and curious caves again, and many smaller images. On the table-land above are what appear to have been the residences of the grandees; for these are fine spacious apartments, handsome domes and arches, some of them nearly entire, of considerable spun. On a small isolated hill stood the castle of Gulgulah, now a most extraordinary heap of ruins. To none of these remains could we discover from the Hauzaureh inhabitants that any tradition was attached.
Dost Mahommed Khaun fled from Baumiaun on our arrival, and putting, as he thought, the Oxus between his enemies and himself, took refuge with his sons Akbar and Mahommed Ufzul, at the court of the hoary-headed old ruffian-king of Bokhara, who not only treated the royal fugitive in other respects in a most shameless manner, but broke also the sacred and time-honoured rule of Nunnawauttee (I enter) by incarcerating him. This word signifies a peculiar custom among the Afghauns, ―a person pursued by his foes, or in difficulties, on entering any man’s house, and refusing to break bread till aid is granted him, cannot, by the rules of Nunnawauttee, be refused, without bringing on the head of the solicited eternal disgrace for his inhospitality. The Ameer was unfortunate and unwise, perhaps, in preferring the larger promises of the traitor of Bokhara to our moderate offers. But the Mahommedans said, “Bashuk (doubtless) it was his ‘Tukdeer’(fate), and had been long foretold by the holiest men, that he would be turned out of his kingdom by the Angraisee (Englishmen), and who can avoid his Tukdeer (which is written)?”
[Keywords]
nanawate/ be-shakk/ taqdir/ Shakar-labb/ hakim/ Bamiyan/ Amir Dust Muhammad Khan/ Kabul/ Barakzay/ parda/ Qizilbash/ kamkhab/ Hindu Kush/ Zohak/ Buddha/ Hazara/ Akbar/ Muhammad Afzal
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